Frequently Asked Questions
The Air Conditioning will not cool the 2nd floor.|
With Air conditioning, the 2nd floor requires more air flow to keep it cool than the 1st floor and is usually the furthest away from the fan. Place your hand over the supply air and compare the air flow to the first floor. You will probable find a lot less air flow. Closing off balancing dampers, located on the supply air piping, to the basement and first floor can improve the air floor. The dampers on the floor grills can be used, as well, but the do not control air flow very well. They provide more on/off control than balancing. Be careful not to choke of the air supply to the evaporator. This coil requires 350-400 CFM per ton in order to work properly, else it will freeze and damage the compressor.
Setting the thermostat fan switch to on, will help to even out the temperature between the floors, by providing a continous air movement or where space allows an
air booster can be added to the duct work. These can be wired to the supply fan or to any 110 volt power source and switched on by an
How do I save money on my heating cost?
Proper annual Service on the equipment !
Read the service files, and make sure the technician, checks the unit properly by measuring the temperature rise, Stack temperature, manifold gas pressure, flue gas testing and draft.
Set the thermostat back a few degrees at night and when your away during the day.Use properly sized equipment.
Use multi-speed or variable speed furnaces.
Make sure the equipment has a proper combustion air supply.
Use a good quality air filter, and change it regularly.
Add humidity to the air. Insulate and seal the cracks in your home. (Don't forget to provide fresh air for the furnace, if it cannot get air for combustion, it will take away the air you breath.)
Properly seal any openings in the vapour barrier I.E. electrical outlets, windows, door, exhaust vents.
Use an air to air heat exchanger (HRV) for combustion, ventilation and exhaust air.
My Furnace burner cycles on and off ?
There two things that normally cause this:
Short cycling on the high limit switch is caused by overheating. Normally caused by a lack of air flow. Clogged filters, faulty fan, restricted duct work. It can also be a cracked heat exchanger, both can be very serious and should be dealt with immediately.
The anticipator setting on the thermostat. On a mercury thermostat, there is an adjustment 0.2 to 1.4 which sets the cycling rate of the furnace. Lower numbers for shorter cycles, higher for longer cycles. Older standard furnaces are usually 0.2 to 0.4. Mid-efficiency and high-efficiency are longer 0.8 to 1.2 on mid-efficiency furnaces it is very important for the burner to run a few minutes before turning off. Short cycles will result in flue gas condensation and will prematurely rust out the furnace, vent connector and chimney.
Most electroninc thremostats such as these
will control the cycling of the furnace better than the mercury stats. The rate of cycling can be set on some models or is set automaticly.
My Air Conditioning coil is freezing up?
Under normal operating conditions 65°F to 105°F outdoor temperature 72°F indoor temperature
Airflow of 400 CFM per ton I.E. 2 TON AC = 1000CFM (Cubic Feet of Air Per Minute )
The air conditioning coil above your furnace should be at 40°F. If the outdoor temperature falls below 65°F or the indoor temperature falls below 72°F or the airflow is below 400 CFM/ton will reduce the evaporator coil temperature. Once the coil falls to 32°F it will begin to freeze over and block the air flow, reducing the air flow and execrating the freezing process.
Dirty Filters, dirty fan, loose fan belt, blocked or restricted ductwork, poor refrigerant piping, an undercharge or over charge of refrigerant, oversized compressor, under sized evaporator or a combination of the above. A freeze stat can be clipped onto the evaporator coil to shut down the compressor when the coil begins to freeze